The Theft Protection

Myths and Facts About Identity Theft

Well, let’s start with works.
A piece of paper with the design printed in my hand and I’m starting
to search for the material being suitable for the longest
Beech is waiting and getting dry (although it was already
very dry).
Temperature here in the workshop is low,
especially on weekends.
I’m marking on the length. I perform
initial cuts usually with a hand saw.
Sometimes, on the floor, sometimes on a trolley with heating fuel,
only to cut it to the size. The material is 55 mm thick,
so unfortunately, I need to cut it twice.
I got used to this small saw so much,
that it is difficult to put it away in favor of some
other, heavier device.
Now the planing machine. A few millimeters must be taken.
It’s quite difficult to move it, so I’m supporting myself
with a push stick attached by the end of the board.
One hand may press the board to the table and the other one push.
At the width of 200-300 mm and more, it’s difficult
to move, when the knife enters the wood.
Hands may slide and such push stick
is the most useful.
In the future, I will make such push stick
all made of wood – such material is safer
than the PLA prints – that’s quite cheap
Edgewise planing of only one part, as the other one
will be cut to the size.
The next step is the planing machine and levelling off the other
side of the bulge.
Some are less or more belled
Beech likes to ripple and turn.
Some boards were 55 mm thick, but sometimes it was even
difficult to obtain 45 mm. The collection must be much
larger so that they are flat on both sides.
Many millimeters become shavings.
A pile of sawdust is created and may be
used as heating fuel.
Now, the saw and I’m cutting along, at first,
it’s always faster than planing by a few mm.
Suffer, suffer 🙂
The next step is already cutting
across the width. You know how I dislike
these small parts that are sometimes cut.
I see that I’m leaving too little allowance
and these micro elements that are cut can
fly over the workshop pretty well. I must improve.
And after cutting on the saw, the next process is
the planing machine, thicknessing machine.
Intentionally, I used a wide shot to show
advantage of solo machines over combi machine.
When we have all machines next to each other,
the work goes smoothly.
Pallet jack is being used. I have two pallets, that are getting dry
so, I cannot place them on the shelves.
That’s why I need to move them sometimes, as
there’s not enough space.
Thicknessing machine and everything is done.
Process of gluing, I remember that my camera unfortunately
turned off but well. Here I’m only tightening.
New clamps KR REVO have the option with tightening
by the Allen key. Sometimes I’m not strong enough 🙂
It was glued and on the next day I started from the planing machine
then the thicknessing machine, these will be the legs.
Glulam 2×45 mm, so the legs will be within
90 mm thick.
We’re going to the thicknessing machine and here 1-2 slides
and we’ve the beautiful poles finished.
You can see after planing how it’s glued,
whether the seam is visible or not.
I’m cutting to the precise size, because here
nothing will change. I had to take off the cover,
as the material overlaps, although it’s 102 mm
the disc is used at maximum.
Sometimes I use a waste material behind, to
prevent from extractions and sometimes I don’t.
Now, the whole series of actions on Pantorouter, to
make bungs and slots.
Look at the two red templates
screwed to the plywood. Here I made my own
double template and it will work out. Large 12 mm
slots are done, they’re parallel to each other
if, of course, the template will be correct.
Making millings on the other side is easy.
We’re changing the bumpers, all are set,
it’s enough to mill and one foot is ready.
So, 4 slots in one of those elements are done.
Now, the bungs will be made. We have a vertical pole.
The template is left as it was, I’m changing
only the finger into the bearing which
was printed by me, so it’s a 3D bearing.
It has a specific diameter. Now, the production of shavings
and sawdust, but most of them ends up in the vacuum cleaner.
I was curious how it would look like. I did tests
before but there is no option of a mistake. If you make the bung
and the slot according to one template, then it has to fit.
Here I had a difficulty because I did my own template
from two original ones, so it was the issue of good
setting and screwing.
The moment of truth. It’s made tight. When I bevel
the bung’s edges, then it will go in well.
The slot is made approx. 5 mm deeper than the bung,
so, there will be space for glue and tightening.
Now, the cross bar of legs and here the template is changed.
Two bungs will be made in a serial arrangement.
The element was approx. 250 mm, so the milling is fair.
Large collection, but on this machine you can
work without any problem.
I would have to prepare larger templates
because it’s a pity to collect so much material.
The baseline thickness is 40 mm and I’m making from this material
a bung, approx. 13 mm thick. We are collecting a lot of it
and to tell you the truth, the bung for the material 40 mm
may be 30 mm.
This is how the leg has been made, to which we will attach the element
from the previous shot. Now I will make two slots.
This is the issue of setting. There’s a spike
(I showed it in some video), which we’re inserting
instead of the cutter and then we’re able to set
perfectly and reach the point marked with a pencil
on the processed material. If you reach it,
you’re setting it in two axes and the rest
is done by the pantorouter mechanism. I can see that the cutter
is getting burnt a bit – I need to wash it and surely
I will send it somewhere for whetting.
It has already served for a long time.
Now, a few slides on the grinder. It should be
sanded before I assemble it.
I tried to treat the edges (3-4 moves)
with a plane. Such micro phase is sufficient to
add esthetic values and protect the wood with a sharp phase
against visible damaging.
Now, the moment of assembly. Aha, take a file in your hand,
to bevel the bungs, then they enter better
the slots. It’s done tight, maybe too much.
I should leave more space for the glue.
You can see how hard it’s for me to squeeze it. Of course,
the clamps are strong so they will handle.
We have the leg and the cross bar. I’m trying to take the glue
immediately, as later on I would have unnecessary work.
Finishing will be natural (wax or oil),
so, I don’t want the glue to discolor the beech.
The legs are connected with the cross bar and now everything
is inserted into the foot. Now 4 bungs must be inserted
into the slots – a few clamps to help me.
I can see that I’m undressing so it must be hot.
A hammer will not help here, I need a clamp and a screw.
The next element. Before, I made a foot and now
the board which will be placed under the desktop.
Everything into the clamps. I have seen that with this thickness
it must be controlled, as the clamps can camber.
Certainly, one clamp on one side and the other one
on the other side; then it’s tightened better.
I set the clamps on both sides, then there is no
cracks and this is the point.
These two last clamps are not required,
but I wanted to tighten and get rid of visible cracks.
The next thing is two slots for the following
cross bar, for the third leg.
You can see what is inserted into the pantorouter
– a gigantic element. I was milling in the center
so, this solid beech was not overbalancing the machine,
it was only tightening it vertically.
I’ve been wondering, whether it resists or not 🙂
the legs were approximately 15-20 kg.
It worked out. I always use two clamps for
safety reasons. It’s the leg number 3, small cuts
and I’m inserting the cross bar between this double and
single leg and I hope that it will match.
It’s well known that I always make some tests.
I wouldn’t dare to tighten the glue and only check.
Here, I’m taking my measure (at the end
of the video I’ll tell you what has happened), as I knew
that something was wrong, but I was curious
what would happen after connecting.
All is assembled. I put it on the floor.
Plywood on the floor in one sheet
must be straight. I loaded it down with a bench
and I checked if it was straight or not.
There’s an issue of connecting legs with the desktop.
I decided to use fixing elements.
Brilliant FAT which relieves my poor back.
I came under the desktop, lifted, left and that’s it.
Now I’m making drillings for the fixing elements. I’m using
the dowelling jig Maffel. 2 fixing elements 12 mm from the edge.
Beautiful positioning. There’s no easier
way. It’s not possible that it moves
to the sides, then. The next drillings to the same lines.
Great thing. Again, FAT is coming, I’m putting
the desktop on the fixing elements, I’m tightening and it’s done.
The next stage of work is completed and the next kilograms are added.
I’m able to incline it to both sides,
but if I wanted to lift it, I would have a problem.
A question for you. Should I add rubber or leather from
the buttom? See, it’s moving.
Then it’ll be more difficult to move it, for sure.
One thing to be explained.
We should not trust machines completely.
Sometimes we should check the angles.
I have not checked and then it was hard.
Now everything is repaired,
but you’ve seen when I was putting the leg
on the pantorouter. I put too much load
and one of the slots moved a bit and
after the assembly of the leg, there was a difference.
I had to put some efforts, thin the bungs to
be able to turn in the slot.
One more thing which was not in the video,
but I’m explaining now.
Here we’ve two holes and 4 screws from the bottom,
because when I send it to Germany, the desktop
will be flat and legs also will be flat.
Then only the legs need to be combined, the desktop needs to be placed
and screwed from the bottom.
That’s it for today. In the video’s description you’ve also
a link to Lakeerie where all the plan
of this workshop furniture is from this bench.
If you download the plan, you’ll see the difference.
I’ve already added my material.
It makes no sense for me to plane this beautiful
beech and change it into shaving.
I decided to glue the legs, make them more
massive to make the bench even heavier.
Thank you for your activity, getting bigger.
I always wait for it 🙂 Comments, Like
Dislike, remember, a bell informs
on new videos.
That’s it. See you in a few days. This time
I’ll make this clamp – Front Wise.
Subtitles made by the community

3 thoughts on “900. Domidrewno wooden workbench – base with legs

  1. 0:26 "bitches waiting and getting dry", życiowe ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) A serio, tytuł i jakieś tagi w opisie też bym po angielsku dodał, bo jak murrykanie maja trafić.

  2. No troszkę lipka bo nasze stolarskie rzemiosło oraz znastwo jest postrzegane dziwacznie na zachodzie czasami jeden prawdziwy stolarz z Polski jest mądrzejszy niż cały warsztat stolarski mowa o anglikach oni zawód stolarza dzielą na pięć innych typu pilarz, klejarz szlifierz, lakiernik a najmadrzejszy rysunki czyta także dla jednej osoby żeby to ogarnęła jest nie możliwe O pływają w narzędziach elektrycznych i ręcznych ale nie wiedzą do czego służą to dla nich czarna magia brak wiedzy a piszę to dlatego bo też jestem stolarz em z 35cio letnim doświadczeniem w tym rzemiosle i życzę powodzenia

Leave comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked with *.